Harry Winston Premier Excenter Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar 200/MAPC Grey/Silver Dial

Opening Context
The Premier collection established the foundation of Harry Winston watchmaking, combining the architectural identity of the house with an unusually adventurous approach to mechanical complications. The Excenter Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 200/MAPC is a particularly expressive example of that period. Rather than presenting the perpetual calendar through a conventional arrangement of subdials, it uses retrograde indications, asymmetry and selective openworking to make the mechanics themselves part of the design. In a 38 mm platinum case, the result remains surprisingly restrained in scale despite the complexity within.

Why This Reference Matters
The Ref. 200/MAPC is defined by the way its perpetual calendar is organised and exposed. Retrograde date and day indications occupy 3 and 9 o’clock respectively, while the month and leap-year display sits at 12 o’clock and the moonphase anchors the composition at 6. Openworked sections of the grey and silver dial reveal elements of the spring-and-cam mechanisms responsible for the retrograde displays, allowing the wearer to see part of the mechanical logic behind the complication. Central hour and minute hands preserve straightforward time reading amid the complexity. Beneath the dial is the automatic Calibre 3106.QP, providing the mechanical foundation for this unconventional interpretation of the perpetual calendar.

On the Wrist
At 38 mm, the Ref. 200/MAPC is notably compact for a watch carrying this degree of visual and mechanical complexity. Platinum gives the case substantial physical weight, yet its cool tone allows the grey and silver dial to remain the focal point. The opposed retrograde displays create a broad visual balance, while the exposed mechanisms introduce depth that changes noticeably as the watch moves under light. A cream leather strap softens the technical character of the dial, with the platinum folding clasp maintaining continuity with the case. It feels mechanically expressive without relying on oversized proportions.

Condition & Transparency
This example is configured with a 38 mm platinum case, grey and silver partially openworked dial, cream leather strap and platinum folding clasp. The perpetual calendar incorporates retrograde date at 3 o’clock, retrograde day at 9 o’clock, month and leap-year indication at 12 o’clock and moonphase at 6 o’clock, with central hour and minute hands. Openworked apertures reveal elements of the retrograde spring-and-cam mechanisms beneath the dial. It is powered by the automatic Calibre 3106.QP, with an approximately 50-hour power reserve. No specific information regarding cosmetic condition, polishing history, box and papers, provenance or previous servicing has been provided, and these details therefore remain unconfirmed rather than assumed. Given the complexity of both the perpetual calendar and retrograde mechanisms, current mechanical condition and service history are particularly meaningful considerations.

Why It Belongs in a Collection
The Ref. 200/MAPC suits a collector drawn to the more experimental side of modern high watchmaking. It takes one of traditional horology’s most established complications and presents it through an architectural, partially openworked display that feels very different from a conventional perpetual calendar. Within a broader collection, it provides genuine contrast to more restrained Geneva complications while retaining serious mechanical substance. It is particularly compelling for someone who enjoys seeing not only what a complication does, but something of how it does it.

Closing
The Harry Winston Premier Excenter Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 200/MAPC is a watch in which complexity becomes part of the visual experience. Its platinum case provides a discreet frame, while the grey and silver dial, exposed mechanisms and opposing retrograde displays reveal a far more unconventional personality. Powered by the automatic Calibre 3106.QP, it captures an inventive approach to the perpetual calendar—traditional in purpose, but distinctly modern in the way that purpose is expressed.