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Breguet Classique Retrograde Seconds 5207BB/12/9V6 White Dial
Breguet Classique Retrograde Seconds 5207BB/12/9V6 White Dial
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Condition |
Year |
Box |
Papers |
| Like New (9/10) | 2012 | Yes | Yes |
Opening Context
The Classique collection represents Breguet’s most direct continuation of the aesthetic and mechanical principles established by Abraham-Louis Breguet. Engine-turned dials, Roman numerals, finely shaped hands, fluted cases, and inventive indications remain central to its identity. The Classique Retrograde Seconds 5207BB/12/9V6 brings these historical signatures together with one of Breguet’s most characteristic complications: a retrograde display. Executed in 18K white gold with an intricate silver guilloché dial, the reference combines traditional decorative craftsmanship with an unusually animated approach to displaying the seconds.
Why This Reference Matters
The Classique 5207BB/12/9V6 immediately distinguishes itself through its asymmetrical yet carefully balanced dial. A silver hand-guilloché surface provides the foundation, with different engine-turned patterns visually separating the individual indications. The off-centre Roman numeral chapter ring preserves the unmistakable language of classical Breguet while freeing the remainder of the dial for its additional complications.
Most distinctive is the retrograde small-seconds display. Rather than completing a conventional circular rotation, the seconds hand travels progressively along an arc before instantaneously returning to its starting position and beginning its journey again. This repeated sweeping-and-returning motion gives the otherwise traditional dress watch an unexpected sense of mechanical animation.
A power reserve indicator complements the retrograde seconds, providing a practical indication of the energy remaining in the mainspring while contributing another element to the deliberately unconventional composition. Despite the amount of information presented, the use of guilloché textures and carefully separated displays allows the dial to remain elegant and legible.
At its heart is the automatic Calibre 516DRSR, offering a substantial 65-hour power reserve. The movement integrates the retrograde seconds and power reserve mechanisms within a self-winding architecture, combining useful everyday autonomy with the mechanical ingenuity historically associated with the Breguet name.
On the Wrist
At 39 mm, the Classique Retrograde Seconds offers a contemporary interpretation of traditional Breguet proportions. The 18K white gold case provides reassuring precious-metal weight while remaining visually understated, allowing the intricacy of the silver guilloché dial to command attention. The cool monochromatic relationship between white gold and silver further emphasises the dial’s textures rather than its materials. Paired with a black leather strap and matching 18K white gold folding clasp, the watch remains unmistakably formal while possessing considerably more visual personality than a conventional time-only dress piece.
Condition & Transparency
This example features a 39 mm case crafted from 18K white gold, paired with a silver hand-guilloché dial incorporating an off-centre Roman numeral chapter ring, power reserve indicator, and retrograde small seconds. It is powered by the automatic Calibre 516DRSR, offering approximately 65 hours of power reserve, and is fitted to a black leather strap with an 18K white gold folding clasp. Particular attention should be given to preservation of the case and its characteristic detailing, condition of the delicate guilloché dial, correct operation and return of the retrograde seconds mechanism, accuracy of the power reserve indication, movement performance, strap and clasp condition, and overall set completeness—communicated strictly on verified information.
Why It Belongs in a Collection
The Classique Retrograde Seconds 5207BB/12/9V6 appeals to collectors who appreciate the distinctive combination of historical design and mechanical inventiveness that defines Breguet. Its hand-guilloché dial and Roman numerals connect directly with the manufacture’s traditional visual vocabulary, while the animated retrograde seconds mechanism prevents the watch from feeling merely historical. The discreet white gold construction makes the complexity even more rewarding at close range. Within a thoughtfully curated collection, it represents an elegant example of how a relatively simple indication can become a genuine mechanical spectacle through imaginative watchmaking.
Closing
The Breguet Classique Retrograde Seconds 5207BB/12/9V6 is a sophisticated fusion of traditional craftsmanship and mechanical creativity. Combining its restrained 18K white gold case, exquisitely hand-guilloché silver dial, distinctive retrograde seconds and power reserve displays, and automatic Calibre 516DRSR with its generous 65-hour autonomy, it captures an essential quality of Breguet watchmaking: the ability to make technical ingenuity appear elegant, purposeful, and unmistakably classical.
Specifications
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Case Size: 39 mm
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Material: 18K White Gold
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Dial: Silver Hand-Guilloché Dial with Off-Centre Roman Numeral Chapter Ring, Power Reserve Indicator and Retrograde Small Seconds
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Strap: Black Leather Strap with 18K White Gold Folding Clasp
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Power Reserve: 65 Hours
- Movement: Automatic (Calibre 516DRSR)
Shipments are delivered under Delivered Duty Unpaid (DDU) terms, with duties and taxes payable by the recipient.
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